Hainan is, as you most likely know, an island province in south China. Fishing has long been part of life for most Hainan residents, and over the years distinctive clothing fashions have been greatly influenced by this vital source of food, fun, and income.

A woman returns from a day of fishing with baskets full of fresh-caught seafood in Xinying Bay, Danzhou. (Photo: Hainan Daily)

Shirts that flatter the female figure

Fishing is hot, humid work, so it’s best to wear something light and loose when heading out to work on the water. Ladies often wear colorful, flattering tops paired with black or grey trousers when fishing.

For example, most women who work in the fishing industry on the west coast of Hainan wear a traditional shirt that fastens high up on the side. These shirts have shorter sleeves and no collar. This style is not only practical, keeping clothing from getting tangled in fishing equipment, but also highly flattering to the female form.

The hard-working women of the sea also usually make their own clothing, and they have quite an eye for beauty! Occasionally, you will even see a shirt with fabrics of different colors shown together to create a fun, artistic new style.

In the waters off Hainan’s southeastern coast, the Tanka people traditionally live their whole lives on the sea. Their attire tends to be mainly black, with wide sleeves and short pants. Although the clothing is simple, it is unique and elegant. Highly suited to their life on the water, the clothes of the Tanka women tie behind their backs, giving them the look of a bird with folded wings.

 A Tanka woman wearing traditional attire. (Photo: Hainan Daily)

Guo Yuguang, president of the Lingshui Tanka Fishing Boat Association, said that when working, Tanka women usually wear a dark-colored apron with embroidered edges to protect their clothing from stains, as well as a silver belt that accentuates their graceful waists. These outfits are comfortable and practical, and incorporate the traditional aesthetics of the Tanka people.

Practical trousers make work a snap

Fisherwomen don’t dress in complicated, fancy dresses. On both the east and west coast of Hainan, the women of the fishing trade all wear practical, wide-leg straight hemmed trousers that won’t encumber them as they work.

A woman from Lin'gao sings the traditional fishing ballad ‘Lilimei’. (Photo: Hainan Daily)

The wide-leg trousers of the fisherwomen have no belt loops, and are instead tied with simple, practical cloth straps. There are no pockets, and the short leg length makes working on the water much more practical.

The loose, wide fit of the trousers is also very important, and allows free movement, including squatting down to handle fishing equipment on the open boat deck or shore. Since getting splashed or even soaked is a near certainty, these clothes are also made to dry quickly in the sea breeze. Changing clothes when out in a fishing boat is extremely inconvenient, but with these quick-drying fabrics there is no need!

Guo Yuguang explained that the Tanka women also wear short blue or grey trousers that only reach the top of the knee. This keeps them dry even when squatting on the shore or fishing on the ocean.

A wide-brimmed hat keeps the sun and rain off

Most people in Hainan wear wide-brimmed bamboo hats when fishing to protect from both sun and rain. Bamboo is a lightweight, strong, durable material that holds up well and makes sturdy, easy-to-carry hats.

Usually, Tanka men and women both wear bamboo hats with a rim that curves down, called Tanka Hats. According to Guo, since the hats are made of bamboo strips and leaves, they are susceptible to insect damage, and the high humidity of life on the sea makes mold a real problem. Ingenious Tanka women use locally sourced crabapple oil to layer on protection, making them both insect and water-proof. These long-lasting hats provide excellent cover no matter the weather.

Tanka women secure their hats with colorful ties decorated with shells and beads. These ties not only keep the hats from being blown away by the wind, but also add a bright, playful pop of color. When working, Tanka women also wear a square checkered scarf under their hats, with one corner centered on their foreheads, two protecting their cheeks, and one peeking out behind.

These colorful hat ties and scarves that were originally only for use on the water later ‘came ashore’, becoming fashionable in fishing villages and ports all around Hainan. In Baimajing Town, Danzhou, it’s popular to wear a towel that nearly covers the entire face under a bamboo hat.

The fisherwomen of Baimajing, Danzhou. (Photo: Hainan Daily)

As time goes by and fashions change, the traditional fishing attire of Hainan is gradually fading away. Some young designers, however, are working to incorporate elements of these fishing fashions into their modern designs, keeping the timeless style of the high seas alive and well.

Yang Zhikai, for example, is a local Hainan fashion designer who has brought the living environment and cultural elements of the Tanka people into his work. He launched an ocean-themed clothing line that was exhibited during the 2022 China International Consumer Products Expo.