An "encounter" that spans a millennium: Seeking Su Dongpo at the Dongpo Academy

By / HICN / Updated: 22:14,12-February-2023

Danzhou Dongpo Academy. [Photo/Liuyang]

In 1097 Su Dongpo arrived on Hainan Island. A political exile from the mainland, he brought pioneering ideas that would have a serious and resounding effect on Hainan's culture, education, and civilization. Spending three years in Danzhou, on the western part of the island, he completed three of his classic works during his time here, along with over 300 articles and poems. Cultural heritage sites left behind when he returned to the mainland include the Dongpo Academy, the Guanglan Sanctuary, and the Dongpo Well (all in Danzhou).

On February 18th, the first China (Hainan) Dongpo Cultural Tourism Week will open to the public. Danzhou City has created an elaborate series of distinctive cultural experience activities as one of the festival's sub-venues. During his time in Danzhou, Su Dongpo lived and worked at the Dongpo Academy. When you step through the Academy's doors, you take a step that spans a millennium of history. Join us in taking that step and having a look at Su Dongpo's life on Hainan Island!

Danzhou Dongpo Academy. [Photo/Liuyang]

Hainan's “First University”

One of Hainan's important cultural tourism attractions, the Dongpo Academy, is located in the eastern suburbs of Zhonghe Town. Formerly known as Zaijiutang (the wine-drinking hall), it was built by Su Dongpo (a great poet and statesman of the Northern Song Dynasty) to meet with students and disciples during the three years he spent in Danzhou. In 1996, the Academy was among the first batch of nationally listed historical and cultural heritage sites. Since being listed as a heritage site, the Academy’s grounds have undergone numerous rounds of renovation and expansion. Now covering 25,040m² of facilities, they include an exhibition hall, reception service center, incense culture center, and private lecture hall.

"Zaijiutang" was built in Su Dongpo's second year in Danzhou. Set up as a lecture hall, this is the school where Jiang Tangzuo (the first Hainanese person to achieve juren status in the Imperial Exams in Guangdong) and Fu Que (the first jinshi — the highest and final degree in the imperial examination — from Hainan) studied. After Su Dongpo returned to the mainland, his local disciples gained all sorts of fame, recognition, and rank. During the Song Dynasty, Hainan produced a total of 12 jinshi. Zaijiutang is where Su Dongpo met and had conversations with his local friends.

In praise of the changes which Su Dongpo wrought on Hainan, the Chongjian Danzhou xueji (重建儋州学记) "Reconstruction of Danzhou Studies" compiled by Ming Dynasty (1368 - 1644) jinshi Tang Zhou (1471 - 1539) says: "The culture of Hainan's literati was born in Danzhou and the greatest scholars of Hainan all come from Danzhou.” Nowadays, the Dongpo Academy has become a cultural highlight for people from all over Danzhou, Hainan, and China to visit as the island’s “first university.”

Danzhou Dongpo Academy. [Photo/Liuyang]

The Story of Su Dongpo's Hat and Shoes

To either side of the grounds of the Dongpo Academy are two uniquely shaped courtyards known as the East and West Gardens. The well in the east courtyard is said to have been dug by Su Dongpo himself. Already more than 900 years old, the well has never run dry. In the west courtyard, a bronze statue of Su Dongpo stands among the colorful flowers.

Danzhou Dongpo Academy. [Photo/Liuyang]

Always an optimist, So Dongpo frequently communicated with the local people during his exile in Danzhou. One time, it started raining when he was on his way to visit friends, and he borrowed a bamboo hat and clogs from a farmer. Seeing him in this silly getup, women and children laughed and followed after him. Even the dogs barked at him. Taking joy in his strange costume, Su Dongpo said, "laughter and barking are sounds of excitement.” As a result, the story of his hat and shoes entered local folklore. Nowadays, a statue of Su Dongpo with a book in his hand and a bamboo hat on his head stands in the Academy, guiding students from Danzhou in their educational journeys forward.

From teaching the local villagers how to dig good wells to discovering the differences in water between nearby wells, there are many interesting things about Su Dongpo's life in Danzhou. Another story comes from a letter he wrote to a family member about how particular the locals are about eating oysters.

Danzhou Dongpo Academy. [Photo/Liuyang]

Although the Dongpo Academy has experienced 900 years of wind and rain, admiration for Su Dongpo has ensured that local people have kept it in good condition over the years, such that it is now a large-scale 4A-grade tourist attraction.

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