Born and living on the sea, the people of Sanya’s Tanka ethnic group have an interesting history. Drifting south as far back as the Ming dynasty, they and their unique culture spread out through the coastal waters of every landmass bordering the South China Sea and records of them living and thriving in the area which would become modern-day Sanya on south China’s tropical island of Hainan go back for centuries.

Sanya's Tanka Culture Museum was completed and opened to the public in September 2015. Featuring eight exhibition areas, it not only collects the stories of the Tanka, it also contains thousands of artifacts including fishing gear, boat models, and clothing, and other cultural exhibits.

Sea Gypsies

Given the moniker “sea gypsies” (or the more polite “sea nomads”), the Tanka are known for mostly living on boats and occasionally having on-land residences near the sea. As seasons turn and various seafood goes in and out of season, they traditionally migrate from fishing ground to fishing ground and harvest the ocean’s bounty with their nets.

To the Tanka, boats are more than just transportation or a means to an end. They are life. From historic flat boats and tail boats to modern light luring seine, the models in the museum’s production exhibition area condense and distill centuries of culture.

These models, the fishing nets, harpoons, net shuttles, and other day to day tools provide visitors with a glimpse of the various challenges faced by Sanya’s Tanka.

It’s no simple life living on the ever changing yet ever constant sea. Facing challenges unimaginable to people who have grown-up on dry land, the Tanka are incredibly brave and hardworking. They have taken the marginal existence of life on the ocean and turned it into a magnificent culture populated by a vibrant legacy of arts, crafts, and skills.

“Fire” on the Water

Historically, all members of the Tanka ethnicity lived on boats. This unique cultural phenomenon gave rise to an unusual cooking culture where seafood accounts for the vast majority of calories consumed.

That doesn’t mean they don't eat vegetables or rice. They have a number of delicacies (such as Tanka-style Kuih Lapis) made from glutinous rice and ground plant leaves. Served sometimes salty and sometimes sweet, the most commonly found flavorings include the leaves of Wild Betel (Piper sarmentosum), Chinese Boxthorn (Lycium chinense), White Egret Flower (Habenaria Radiata), Pandan (Pandanus amaryllifolius), and coconut and peanuts...

Tanka Zongzi is also an important part of their food culture. Befitting people who spend their lives at sea, the flavor of the ocean has been incorporated into this conveniently packaged on-the-go meal. In addition to the pork and salted egg yolk filling that’s common around Hainan island, the Sanya Tanka make their zongzi with dried snapper and shrimp. Giving an even richer and more varied taste, the leaf wrappings which the zongzi are steamed in are often dried Phrynium leaves instead of the more common bamboo.

A perforated frame placed over a pot of boiled water is a common utensil found in Tanka kitchens to create pastina-sized pieces of rice noodles for a delicious dish somewhat reminiscent of congee.

Song and Celebration

The “salt water” songs are a kind of communal entertainment used to relieve boredom during long trips at sea. Also known as the “Songs of the Tanka People” they were—in 2021—one of the fifth batch of items inscribed on the National Intangible Cultural Heritage List.

Most modern-day Tanka people live not only on land but in the city as well. However, generations of dependence on the sea have penetrated so deep into their psyche that abandoning their connection with the sea is all but impossible. Even the Tanka who have never lived aboard a boat will still gather together with other Tanka people to sing the salt water songs. As part of preserving their history and introducing their culture to the world, the Tanka Museum regularly hosts groups of older women who not only sing the salt water songs but also practice (and teach) traditional dance steps and share their stories and the stories of their forefathers.

 Maritime Fashion

The Tanka’s traditional clothing—like everything else about the Tanka—hearkens back to their maritime culture. Wide short-cut trousers, horseshoe sleeves (referring to the generously rounded armpit gusset), and broad brimmed hats protect their wearers from the sun while allowing for freedom of movement.

Floral printed (instead of embroidered) cloth brings a sturdy touch of color to the women’s fashion, and they also like to wear silver bracelets on their wrists and ankles. Made from stiff strips of woven bamboo in a hexagonal pattern, the coolie hat favored by both genders not only shade its wearers during the heat of the day, it also protects from rain. In the event of wind, an often beaded chin strap helps to keep the hat in place.

During construction, a skillful weaver can incorporate small mirrors, good luck charms, or pieces of jade into the structure. Less specially produced hats can be purchased just about anywhere and are very suitable for recreational fishermen or beachgoers. The gift of a custom made Tanka hat is a way of showing respect or conveying affection.

The Tanka also have unique wedding customs with a high-collared shirt and trousers being worn by the bride instead of a dress or other such clothing that wouldn't be suitable for life on a boat. However, as with the rest of China, she wears bright red instead of the traditionally easier to achieve blues, blacks, and beiges that make up most of their wardrobe.

Photos: @精美天涯