Li Brocade, listed by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, is an iconic traditional textile art of Hainan’s native Li people. This art form has not only been passed down through countless generations of local Li families, but is now inspiring people from all around the world. From Li Brocade fashions on Paris runways to the stylish modern Li Brocade inspired handbags, earrings, suit ties, and other accessories popular with international travelers looking to bring Hainan home with them, Li Brocade is going global in a big way. In this series, we will hear the stories of people from different parts of the world who have been inspired by Li Brocade to create something new.

A Li woman weaves Li Brocade on a traditional foot loom.

(Photo by Hainan Daily)

Human Geography Connects Cultures

Dr. Yana Wengel has been inspired by the beautiful, meaningful patterns of Li Brocade. (Photo courtesy of Dr. Wengel)

Dr. Yana Wengel is currently based in Hainan, where she works as an Associate Professor in tourism geography. Her identity is shaped by movement across places, and she carries many homes in her heart, including Russia and Germany. Dr. Wengel first encountered Li Brocade through her academic research into the Hainan Tropical Rainforest National Park. She read about the Hainan Gibbon as well as the island’s Li and Miao peoples, and was struck by a sudden sense of familiarity. “Some patterns reminded me of Māori designs in New Zealand, perhaps because both cultures express a deep relationship with nature through geometry, symbolism, and repetition. There is a certain pattern that feels less decorative and more like a way of encoding knowledge and belonging.”

Custom Li Brocade Commission & Travel Sketchbook Inspiration

Dr. Wengel’s custom Li Brocade bag strap combines traditional Hainan culture with modern design. 

(Photo courtesy of Dr. Wengel)

After coming to Hainan, Dr. Wengel commissioned a young designer from Wuzhishan to create a custom Li Brocade pattern bag strap - a piece that is still treasured and used daily.

A page from Dr. Wengel’s travel sketchbook features the Li Brocade Lightning pattern, along with other items she has encountered in Hainan.

These days, Dr. Wengel also incorporates Li Brocade inspired patterns in her travel sketchbook, which serves as a visual diary of her time in Hainan. “As a human geographer, I find the intersection between material culture, identity, and landscape particularly compelling,” explains Dr. Wengel.

Hunting the Hainan Gibbon

A pair of Hainan Gibbons in the tropical rainforest. (Photo by Hainan Tropical Rainforest National Park)

In the future, Dr. Wengel hopes to better understand the meanings behind specific Li Brocade patterns and how they relate to stories, landscapes, and social life within Li communities. She is especially looking for a traditional Li Hainan Gibbon pattern. “Today, the Hainan Gibbon is critically endangered and survives in very small numbers in Bawangling. At the same time, there is reason for hope, as conservation efforts and government support are now playing an important role in protecting the species and improving its chances of survival.”