Double horse pattern on women’s shirt: Run branch of the Li people. Photo: Chen Daxu

Hainan Li Brocade, listed by UNESCO as an intangible cultural heritage art of humanity, is a treasured ancient textile art of the island’s original inhabitants, the Li people. Having no written language of their own, the Li weave their stories, dreams, legends, and history into the patterns of their colorful brocades, passing them down from generation to generation. The intricate patterns are more than just a pretty design - they each have their own unique significance and tale to tell. The Secrets of Hainan Li Brocade series will uncover the hidden meaning behind the many iconic patterns of this ancient art.

The Horse Pattern

Horse and rider pattern on women's skirt: Run branch of the Li people. Photo: Hainan Li Traditional Brocade Pattern Interpretation

Historically, Hainan island had no horses. In fact, the Book of Han Geography records that Hainan 'had no horses or tigers'. At that time, most Li people had no contact with horses, let alone the experience of riding them. So where did the traditional Li Brocade horse pattern come from?

Li Brocade horse pattern painted on a wall in Ancient Gaoshi Village, Baisha (白沙高石老村). Photo: Nicki Johnson

Horses were introduced onto Hainan island from the mainland during the Han Dynasty period. As the Han established governance outposts in Hainan, the number of horses on the island gradually increased, and more and more Li people began to encounter these striking animals.

Horse and rider pattern on women's shirt: Qi Branch of the Li people. Photo: Hainan Li Traditional Brocade Pattern Interpretation

As their familiarity with the power, speed, and agility of horses grew, the Li began to weave the first horses into their brocades, and soon the Li Brocade horse pattern was born.

Horse and rider pattern on women's skirt: Qi Branch of the Li people. Photo: Hainan Li Traditional Brocade Pattern Interpretation

By the Song Dynasty, according to the Lingwai Daida (岭外代答), the Li people were already raising their own horses, and skirts with horse patterns were often worn during major ceremonies such as funerals and religious activities.

Double horse and rider pattern on women's skirt: Run branch of the Li people. Photo: Hainan Li Traditional Brocade Pattern Interpretation horse pattern on women's shirt: Run branch of the Li people. Photo: Chen Daxu

The Li Brocade horse patterns follow the traditional style of Li Brocade, with contrasting colors and predominantly straight lines and angles creating striking geometric figures. Some horse patterns feature a rider, while others focus mainly on the horse itself.

Horse and rider pattern on women’s skirt: Qi Branch of the Li people. Photo: Hainan Li Traditional Brocade Pattern Interpretation

Overall, the Li Brocade horse pattern is believed to represent wealth and power, probably due to the connection of the horse with the well-off, mighty representatives of the Han Dynasty, although there are some differences between the style and meaning of the horse brocade pattern in different areas of Hainan. In the Ha branch of the Li people, for example, the horse pattern symbolizes the ruggedness, strength, and bravery of men, and is often worn to honor and remember male ancestors.

Horse and rider pattern on women's skirt: Ha branch of the Li people. Photo: Hainan Li Traditional Brocade Pattern Interpretation

In 2026, the Year of the Horse, the Li Brocade horse pattern is sure to be popular! What other Li Brocade patterns do you want to learn more about? Leave a message in the comments to help select the next pattern in the Secrets of Hainan Li Brocade series.