Hidden in the rainforest-covered mountains of Hainan's Baoting Li and Miao Autonomous County lies Maogan, a township where life is as simple as it is sweet. Here, Ms. Fang, a member of the Li ethnic group, diligently brews Shanlan rice wine day in, day out, rinsing and steaming the glutinous grains before adding yeast and water, leaving the rest up to time. In recent years, her skills, passed down generation upon generation from mother to daughter, have begun reaping rewards as social media has elevated her homebrewed bibation to new heights of popularity beyond Baoting's borders.

Shanlan rice wine, whose origins lie far back in the mists of time, is as much a ceremonial draught as it is a daily tipple after a hard day's work, and in this way, it embodies the spirit and tradition of the Li people, who benefit from nature's bounty. One of its most famous mentions in literature comes from Su Shi, the hailed polymath and eternal optimist who heralded it as, "A rustic brew, by Li's art distilled, in earthen cups, with coarse dregs filled."

In this Baoting edition of Hainan Heritage, we take a glimpse at Shanlan rice wine production and the rhythm of life that revolves around it, following its course from grain to market growth.