Located in Danzhou City in the northwest part of the Chinese island province of Hainan, Shiwu Village is inhabited mostly by Hakka people. Long ago, people in the village lived in thatched cottages but hoped that one day they could move into stone houses instead. That’s why they named the village “Shiwu” (which literally means stone houses in Chinese). In the 1980s, the residents of the village made that dream come true as they worked hard and succeeded in leaving poverty behind. On November 20, 2016, the village was named a three-star ”Beautiful Village”, securing its place on Hainan’s first list of 40 “Beautiful Villages”.

When you walk into the village, the ancient pavilions, the park full of greenery and colorful blossoms, and the children running and playing everywhere form a beautiful picture full of happiness and harmony. You’ll see something special if you visit in December though - strings of preserved meat and sausages hanging in front of almost every house. These savory sausages are one of the specialty foods of Danzhou, and also a must-have menu item for every Hakka family here during the yearly Spring Festival celebrations.

XIAN HE / HINEWS & NEW HAINAN APP

XIAN HE / HINEWS & NEW HAINAN APP

XIAN HE / HINEWS & NEW HAINAN APP

According to the locals, the Hakka people usually start the preparations for making their traditional preserved sausages for the upcoming New Year as early as October. This is when they buy fennel, cinnamon, and other spices from the market, and soak them in Erguotou Liquor (a type of light-aroma baijiu made from sorghum). Some people even soak their spices for up to a whole year, to add additional flavor. When December comes, the Hakka people finely chop locally sourced pork, add sugar and salt for seasoning, and mix it together with the flavored liquor. The mixture is then put into the sausage casings, and the newly made sausages are hung to slowly cure in a dry, well-ventilated place. If the weather is too cold or wet to dry the sausages, they can also be steamed. However, steamed sausages don't taste as good as ones that have been slowly dried in the open air.

As their income increases, people in Shiwu Village are making more and more sausages. Sometimes a family can make as much as dozens of kilograms of sausages, saving some for the family to devour, and some to give as New Year’s gifts to their visiting relatives and friends.

In contrast to the fast pace of urban life, most Hakka people choose to make their sausages by hand, which is a test of both patience and perseverance. While the taste of handmade sausages may differ from house to house, they are all flavored with love, and serve as a tasty reminder of the happiness of the family gathering together for a lively New Year. Every bite of every sausage fills the belly of the diner with the joyful knowledge that the biggest holiday of the year, Spring Festival, is just around the corner. 

XIAN HE / HINEWS & NEW HAINAN APP

XIAN HE / HINEWS & NEW HAINAN APP

(Photographer: Xian He)